Hello, we’re James, Aileen and Zeus

We’re touring Europe in a campervan. This is about our adventure.

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    Week 9: Sierra Nevada

    For the first week of 2023 we headed to Spain’s highest mountain range – the Sierra Nevada, James did some epic road cycling, we had to adjust to several failed plans, and spent some time chilling on the south coast.

    Road cycling in the Sierra Nevada

    We’ve watched television coverage of the Vuelta and have been awestruck as riders battle each other on super steep climbs that look like walls of tarmac. After a couple of tough road rides in this week James can confirm it is every bit as brutal as the TV screen makes it look – “It’s a good reminder that you are a mortal and middle aged”.

    His first ride was from Pinos Genil in the heart of the Sierra Nevada and was plotted as a moderate morning ride. Unbeknownst to him it took in a significant part of the main climb from the 2022 Vuelta Queen Stage – “I saw a sign at the foot indicating an average gradient of 12%, and 22% for the immediate section, similar signs repeated up the climb”. In spite of the fierce climb the ride was survived and even enjoyed.

    His next ride was into the mountains from the coast where we stayed at Castell de Ferro. This time it fulfilled expectations and had stunning views back to the sea, although James’ planned mid-climb break in a village had to be deferred as he was cheered on by some guys in their eighties, so it felt disrespectful to stop a few meters further up the road.

    No room at the inn

    This week we had several instances of having to change our plans because we could not stay where we planned to, or do what we planned to. In all cases it seems to work out for the better (we think). Though we can’t seem to make it to Granada.

    The first instance was on New Year’s day. We had hoped to stay in La Peza, a town at the foot of the north end of Sierra Nevada. We were tired from a hike we did in Sierra Cazorla, we’d been driving for 2 hours and it was getting late. As we got close to the town we saw a lot of what looked like abandoned vehicles at the roadside and we were met by the Guardia Civil, who blocked us from entering the town. We drove on and managed to snag the last spot in an Area de Autocaravanas in Beas de Granada. Turns out the police had been trying to disperse an illegal rave in La Peza for days. The next day we planned to head to Granada. While waiting at a bus stop, a stranger walking by kindly informed us it was a fete, and buses weren’t running. So we headed back to the campervan, put on our hiking boots and went for a nice walk directly from Beas de Granada instead. We enjoyed our first sighting of the snow capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada, and Granada nestled in the valley at the foot of the mountains.

    In the second instance of a failed plan, we had planned to stay at another Area de Autocaravanas closer to Granada, the plan being we would take a bus into Granada the next day. We’d done a tiring hike in the mountains that day and it was getting late (a trend maybe?!). The campervan park was full. We decided to do an hour-long drive to another Area de Autocaravanas in Órgiva, the gateway to Las Alpujarras, and instead do a hike and/or explore the famous whitewashed mountain towns of the Poqueira valley the next day. Las Alpujarras is a region of deep dramatic valleys that form the southern flank of the Sierra Nevada. It has a fascinating history having been a centre of silk worm farming for the silk mills of Almeria during the reign of the Moors. After Reconquista, the region was given to the last emir Boabdil as his fiefdom. When he left for Fes shortly after, the Muslims who lived in the area either had to convert to Christianity, or be banished. A lot of the land was given over to northerners who changed the area’s economy to one of farming of livestock and grains that it is today.

    It was a dreary rainy day when we visited that area, so we made the most of it by having a most excellent lunch of Pierna Choto Asado (roasted baby lamb shoulder) at El Asador, a restaurant in Capileira. And we managed to admire the beauty of the area as we drove through the squiggly misty mountain roads.

    In the third case of a failed plan, we had to bin a hike in the Sierra Nevada. We had stayed in a parking lot in Monachil overnight, the plan being to do a hike to Los Cahorros the next morning. We woke up and while we were getting ready for the hike, we tried calling a VW service centre to make an appointment to sort out a potential coolant leak issue. With our very basic knowledge of Spanish (and a rather unhelpful person on the other end of the phone), we failed miserably to make an appointment. We decided the issue was important to resolve, so we drove 1.5 hours to a VW in Malaga to make an appointment with Google Translate in hand. We managed to make an appointment at the earliest slot they had available the following week.

    The flexibility and freedom of living in a campervan is both a blessing a curse. A blessing in that you do have the freedom to roam and always have the comforts of a home with you. A curse in that you have to flexible and adjust to the inevitable uncertainty when things don’t go to plan.

    Hiking in the Sierra Nevada

    We did eventually manage to do that hike around Los Cahorros. Los Cahorros is a deep gorge that runs from the town of Monachil to the source of it’s eponymous river. It is a popular walk, particularly through the gorge where the path is linked by several suspension bridges. We elected to do a bigger, elevated loop around the surrounding area and were rewarded with some beautiful scenery and stunning views. We definitely just scratched the surface though, and no doubt there are many wonderful hikes we could do in the region. Alas we had the VW service appointment scheduled that required us to move west to Malaga. Sierra Nevada is definitely an area we need to explore more of at some point in the future.

    Castell de Ferro

    For our necessary and important days “off” to thaw and clean, we decided to head to Castell de Ferro on the coast south of Granada. It was nice not to have to wear a jacket, or thermals and socks to bed. The town itself had a long wide beach and clear water, great sunrises, nice cafes and restaurants, and a picturesque Muslim fort on top of a hill. The valley behind the town however, was lined chock-a-block with the polypro-covered tunnels for fruit and vegetable farms. It’s quite a remarkable site, but not in a good way.

    Eagles eagles eagles

    We forgot to mention in the last post – over the past number weeks we have seen a LOT of eagles on walks. They’ve been super impressive to watch and thankfully none have fancied Zeus for lunch, at least that we know of. Whilst driving through Parque Natural de las Sierras de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas we saw what must have been at least a hundred eagles circling as a group in a huge column. At one point about 5-10 eagles swooped into a tree right next to us on the road. We want to mention it here because the blog is our diary of our adventures, and in case anyone knows what that behaviour is related to? We’re guessing it could be related to mating, but the internet has let us down on a dependable explanation, so do let us know if you know what it’s all about!

    What’s next?

    We aim to visit Granada – our priority is to see the Alhambra. After a number of failed attempts, will we finally make it we wonder? (If you follow us on Instagram you may know the

    Afterwards we need to head to Malaga to get the van’s coolant issue assessed and hopefully fixed.

    From there we aim to head north towards Cordoba.

    Thanks for reading this week’s instalment. We’d love to hear your questions or thoughts about our blog. Feel free to drop us a comment!

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    Week 7/8: Festive double edition

    Happy New Year! We hope you had a wonderful holiday season and thank you for following us on our journey.

    We experienced our first vanlife Christmas and New Year, and whilst it was a “different” or “new” experience, frankly the last two Christmas holidays were “different” too so perhaps that’s the new normal 🙂. 2020 was last-minute-lockdown Christmas, 2021 was sick-with-COVID Christmas, and 2022 was sunny-campervan-park-by-the-beach-surrounded-by-Germans Christmas. We wonder what 2023 will bring?

    The last 2 weeks have been quite a mix of experiences – aside from chilling by the beach over Christmas in Oliva surrounded by enormous motorhomes and German retirees, we’ve been to a couple of bouldering sites, James has gotten a good taste of cycling in Spain, we’ve continued our exploration of natural parks, and we’re settling into the rhythm of vanlife – the daily routines such as cooking and finding a loo, as well as the uncertainty of what each day will bring.

    Climbing in Alcañiz

    We spent 3 days in Alcañiz and James managed to climb about as many boulders. On the first day/attempt, Google took us down some pretty dodgy looking off-road tracks that led to muddy dead ends. We spent the rest of the afternoon figuring out how to access some crag sites. On the second day/attempt, we woke up to thick fog. We headed down the dirt tracks in said fog. For a brief moment the sun appeared and James managed to climb some boulders before the fog rolled back in. Hooray. On the third day, we woke up to thick fog. We didn’t bother trying, and went on a sightseeing trip to Morella instead. In summary, the weather was not on our side.

    Note: James subscribes to the 27 Crags app for topos and is pleased to say it works well (it’s €50 a year, but we don’t have space to bring lots of print guides with us).


    Morella is a walled hilltop medieval town with a very impressive castle perched on a big rock in the middle. Castell de Morella has a long history of being used as a defensive fort, first by the Muslims, and then a long succession of Christian kings. The castle itself is pretty well preserved and well worth a visit. Dogs are also allowed on the grounds which we’re finding a rarity in Spain. There were also some pretty cool and well-preserved medieval aqueducts just outside the walled town.

    Christmas Climb in Xàtiva

    We met up with some of James’ climbing friends Jon and Ellie for a Christmas climb. The closest site James could find to Oliva (where we were all staying) was Xàtiva, a 45-min drive away. The crag sat on the edge of the town, had some “local artwork” on them and didn’t look very promising on 27 Crags. Despite the somewhat grungy setting, it turned out to be nice crag for an afternoon of climbing.

    Tired and hungry afterwards, we stopped by a restaurant at a petrol station on the way back to Oliva, and had a fantastic 3 course lunch of arroz con pollo y setas, grilled sardines, and crème Catalan. The non-driving party enjoyed 2 glasses of wine. We both had espressos. Lunch came to €20 for two!!??!!

    Cycling in Valencia

    James enjoyed a couple of good rides on the mountain bike, without crashes. First in Serra de Espadà then in Oliva. Serra de Espadà was all on hiking trails that could be ridden, Oliva was a mix of hiking and purpose built mountain bike trails. There is an element of chance if hiking trails are going to be good to ride so he was very pleased to have found some challenging and fun trails.

    One thing that makes cycling in Spain particularly enjoyable is people’s enthusiasm for the sport and the respect car drivers show. That’s helped offset the suffering he inflicted on himself with the road bike and long steep hills.

    Note: For finding mountain bike trails James has a subscription to the Trailforks app which he finds significantly more helpful than Strava for identifying trails and their likely character.

    More of Spain’s Natural Parks – Valencia and Andalucia

    We continued our exploration of Spain’s Natural Parks. In Valencia, we did a hike up to Los Órganos de Benitandús (which we think translates to “the organs of Benitandus”?!?), an impressive rock pinnacle/formation in Parc Natural de la Sierra de Espadá. We also did a hike up to a Muslim fort, Castell de Serra in Parc Natural de la Serra Calderona. The latter required a very steep climb up, and Aileen could see how this would be a good deterrent for prospective marauders, and people who don’t like steep climbs. At one point James worried we would not make it to the fort. We did. And we made it back down too well before sunset.

    Note: Both these walks and most others we have found and navigated with the AllTrails app, we’ve been impressed but haven’t paid for the premium version yet.

    From Valencia we headed southwest to Parc Natural Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas in the Jaén province of Andalucia. It is a vast park with multiple mountain ranges, and is the largest protected area in Spain. We saw sooooo many eagles, drove on lots of teeny squiggly mountain roads, and also had our first incident requiring road side assistance. While in the middle of this vast park, we got a Low Coolant – stop immediately warning. Our van’s manual instructed us to stop and call for assistance. Given where we were, we had no inclination to do otherwise. Our rescue arrived 2 hours later, and we drove with him 18 minutes down the road to a town we passed earlier and got a coolant top up. We also found out the literal translation from Spanish for follow me to the garage is “do you want to come from behind”.

    We decided to “wild camp’ in a small parking lot in a very small town, rather than drive an hour and a half in the dark on windy roads with a known coolant issue to the nearest town with campervan parking. We enjoyed a very nice dinner in the town’s restaurant, went to bed early, got up at the crack of dawn and continued on our merry way. This was our first wild camping experience and it wasn’t so bad, although it was -1.5 C when we woke up and James can confirm that unlocking bikes and wiping down misty windows is not fun in freezing weather.

    We did 2 hikes in the park – one to Peñamujo, a huge rock formation jutting out of the Sierra Segura, that we climbed to enjoy breathtaking views over the park and Embalse del Tranco de Beas (a very long lake) tucked between the ridges, with eagles gliding past, perhaps to check if Zeus was tasty looking. The second hike we did was along the base of Picón de Rayal on Sierra Cazorla. Jaén, we later learned, produces 10% of the world’s olive oil, and the views of a carpet of olive groves as far as the eye could see were pretty spectacular.

    Vanlife Christmas and New Year

    One of the interesting differences we’ve noticed in Spain vs the UK is the cuts of meat. In the UK it’s quite common/easy to find a pork roast with skin still attached for crackling, or a lamb leg with the shank removed, or a rolled prime cut of beef. There aren’t (at least to us) any/many obvious cuts for roasting in Spain that doesn’t require a big oven. The closest campervan-appropriate thing we found in a supermarket was Margo Cabeza Malla, which translates to “Lean meshed head”. To this day we’re still not quite sure what part of the pig it was, but it was a mighty tasty Christmas roast.

    We spent Christmas in a campsite in Oliva and enjoyed the benefits of a wash basin with running hot water. So our Cobb BBQ was put to good use – we had whole roasted turbot one evening, a “Lean meshed head” roast for Christmas Eve, and grilled a lovely piece of aged on-the-bone sirloin we picked up at a butcher for Christmas Day. We also enjoyed the wines we’d collected over our recent winery visits. The bottle of Antis Tiana Xarelo we picked up in Penedes went nicely with the turbot. The DO Monsant Clos Maria Blanc we picked up in Priorat was delicious with the pork roast. And our Christmas gift to ourselves was a bottle of Perinet Priorat 2016 with the steak. It was a lovely Christmas for eating, drinking and enjoying the sunshine and balmy weather.

    We also did a deep van clean at the campsite which involved taking stuff out of storage spaces and cleaning out accumulated dust and dirt. We did a massive load of laundry. We gave the van a wash. It definitely helps, we think, to share van life with someone who is equally fastidious about the cleanliness of the van!

    We were in the mountains on New Year’s Eve, so we enjoyed a quiet evening in the van with prawns and cava and saw the New Year in with hastily eaten grapes.

    What next

    We’ve headed south towards Granada where we’ll no doubt do a hike or two in the Sierra Nevada, hopefully get to explore more of Spain’s Muslim history, James hopes to dust the bicycles off, and after 6 days on the road, we’re looking to stop at a campsite on the south coast for a thaw and clean.

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    Week 6: Catalunya

    A change of plan

    We have to admit, we never planned to explore the east coast of Spain. Without knowing too much about it, we had a vague idea of coastal beach areas, and the big cities Barcelona and Valencia which we’d visited before. Our loose Spain “plan” was to visit the mountainous north – Pyrenees and Picos, Basque Country and Galicia, then head south through Portugal to explore the parks and Muslim history of the South, then catch a ferry heading east towards Sardinia and Sicily etc.

    Instead 2 weeks ago we found ourselves needing warmer climes and so we headed to the east coast of Spain, and have shelved our northern Spain plans until the summer. We needed to fill the time leading up to Christmas, so we decided to meander down towards Valencia where we’ll be stopping for Christmas to meet up with some friends.

    And what a wonderful surprise Catalunya was. Yes there’s been the warm sun filled beach coast where we’ve enjoyed “recovery time”, but exploring the numerous natural parks that run parallel to the coast and are usually a mere 30-45 minutes away has been such an unplanned pleasure.

    Catalunya’s natural parks

    Montserrat, which we visited last week, was a no-brainer given it’s proximity to Barcelona, and is a well known place to visit. But when we looked at Google maps, we noticed a string of parks that continued south, and so we decided to explore them too.

    Parc Natural Serra de Montsant lies west of Tarragona in the Priorat region. It features a long, tall and dramatic ridge which we did an epic hike up. Heading up the ridge you have expansive views of the Prioriat area which looks like a jumble of hills and mountains sandwiched between bigger sierras and mountains. Vineyards scale the sides of the smaller mountains and small hilltop villages dot the jumble of mountains. It was a breathtaking sight. We stopped frequently and took way too many pictures. We wondered if the multiple eagles flying nearby thought Zeus looked like a tasty snack.

    Parc Natural dels Ports lies south of Montsant, and from what we can tell is an expansive park of dramatic limestone mountains and ridges. We climbed up Roques De Benet, a dramatic conglomerate rock jutting out of the mountain. We saw climbers scaling it and were greeted at the top by a family of wild goats.

    We feel we’ve only scratched the surface too. We could easily spend a week or 2 in each of these parks, and we look forward to returning to them at some point our our future.

    Catalunya wine

    It’s also been a pleasure exploring the wine regions of Catalunya. Last week we visited a cellar in DO Penedes, Cava country.

    This week we visited Perinet, a winery in the prestigious DOQ Priorat region. Prioriat red wines are renowned in the wine world as bold, complex and top notch wines. And you can see why when you visit the region – it’s a tough place for vines to grow. They grow on steep slopes of rocky slate hills, and endure extreme extreme temperatures. So the grape yields are low, but the vines grow grapes with deep and concentrated flavours.

    It was great to explore inside the winery – from the lab where the winemaker determines when to start/stop key steps in the wine making process, to where the picked grapes are cleaned and sorted, to the enormous fermentation tanks, to the underground cellar where the wine ages in oak barrels.

    Prioirat wines are delicious. And the price of the wine reflects this. We picked up a bottle as a treat to go with our Christmas meal.

    Coastal exploits

    We previously knew nothing about Tarragona, but when we read about it’s Roman past life as Tarraco, we had to visit. And it did not disappoint. The amphitheatre was an impressive sight, situated overlooking the sea. You could see Roman relics littered throughout the city, including a circuit for chariot racing, the forum, a theatre and quite a bit of the original city wall.

    We also spent 3 days chilling in Cambrils, a coastal town just south of Tarragona, which we can report has an epic fishmonger – Peixos Savall. We think Zeus is slowly getting used to the feeling of sand under his toes. He’s still hilariously curious and scared at the same time about waves, but he did manage to have a beserk run on the beach which was great to see.

    What’s next

    We’ve left Catalunya, and have just arrived in Aragon, where we’ll be spending 3 days in Alcaniz where James hopes to climb some rocks. From here we plan to meander down towards Valencia via a natural park or two.

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    Week 5: We made it to Spain

    As soon as our campervan was fixed in Rodez, we took decisive action and headed to Spain. It has been nice to feel our fingers and toes again this week.

    Southern France was lovely – we enjoyed some spectacular walks, visits to wineries, good food etc. But it was just too cold and wet, and we weren’t prepared. Yes Sud-Ouest, France gets cold and wet. The toll of the chill was made evident when we took Zeus to the vet for his ICAD registration and found that he had lost almost a kilogram. For a 6 kg dog, that’s a significant % of his total body weight. He was also sleeping all the time, had no energy and frankly seemed like a depressed dog. The humans in the campervan weren’t fairing well either. We weren’t sleeping well, and constantly being cold was definitely affecting our moods.

    But before Spain….

    We stopped by Perpignan on the way to Spain where James got to climb at La Grappa Escalade, and we had a memorable lunch at L’Emile, a tiny hole in the wall restaurant in the old town area of Perpignan. It had some high tables and bar stools outside and a lot of happy people, eating and drinking. Inside was a small bar counter, where we sat. We love watching all the action in a kitchen, so lunch was a leisurely 2.5 hour affair that involved 3 courses and 3 glasses of wine each. We left feeling stuffed of tuna carpaccio, croquettas, tartiflette and more cheese.

    Out of the freezer

    Our first order of business in Spain was to thaw and relax. We booked a spot at a campsite in Pineda de Mar for 4 nights. PDM is a coastal town north of Barcelona, so we enjoyed day-time temps in the teens and overnight temps hovering just below 10 degrees, which is far nicer that overnight temps of 0. And the sunshine felt glorious after 2+ weeks of cold rain.

    So everyone’s mood has vastly improved in the past week. Zeus has gained some weight (we’ve been trying to fatten him up) and has been his usually curious, energetic self on walks. He loved the day trip we took to Barcelona to check in on the progress of Sagrada Familia – still some ways to go, they’re targeting to complete in 2026, but it was awesome to see the progress since we both last saw it. Zeus got to meet and get hugs from lots of strangers on the train and underground. Aileen’s fingers sufficiently thawed and she managed to finish knitting a pair of socks. And James is glad his fingers aren’t frozen when he locks/unlocks the bikes, and he enjoyed a mountain bike ride around the nearby hills.

    In addition to thawing, we got to give our van and selves a good clean, and we also got to cook some nice meals. We made a Spanish inspired pork stew, grilled some pork secreto (YUM), and had some rather tasty pork chops (notice a trend here? LOL). We’re finding that Mercadona supermarkets have a great selection of fresh food – we also made some grilled cuttlefish and a wild mushroom pasta.

    Exploring Montserrat

    After resting for 4 days we were ready to start exploring again. We headed southwest to Montserrat, a mountain range near Barcelona that is quite a spectacular sight. James likens it to a giant crinkly crisp jutting out of the ground. Aileen thinks it looks like the spikey ridged back of a Stegosaurus, but with nubby worn spikes. It is quite the sight to behold. We did several hikes in the area, and although overnight temps reached close to freezing, we knew we’d have to endure it for a only 3 days, before heading east again to a campsite we’ve booked near Tarragona.


    We’re at a Cava producer as we type this blog instalment. The Penedes region just outside of Barcelona is Cava country, so we couldn’t not swing by for a swig. Penedes is a small valley tucked in between 2 mountain chains west of Barcelona, and Montserrat towers over it’s northern end. We enjoyed a wonderful tour of the Cava making process, and got to sample 3 Cavas. It was great to learn more about Cava, a sparkling wine that’s less appreciated in the UK than its sparkling brethren Champagne and Prosecco. Which is a shame as it’s distinctive it its own right. It is made predominantly from Xarel-lo, a variety local to the Penedes region, they use the traditional method to produce Cava – the same method used to make champagne, and it has DO designation.

    We’re now heading back to the coast to thaw, and are looking forward to exploring further south in Spain.

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    Week 3/4: Some FAQs

    Frequently Asked Question 1 – What is your itinenary?

    The most frequent question we had before we started the adventure was “What are your plans?”. We’d reply with something like “To start, we’ll travel down the west side of France with the aim of getting to the north coast of Spain then to Portugal. We have a couple of places to stay booked in France, but our intention is do that part quite quickly.”

    So why, after nearly a month are we still in France? Some circumstance have conspired to delay us. And, we were probably optimistic in our plans. First we had van issues, which took a while to resolve and stopped us travelling too far. 

    • Issue 1: We broke the bed, which meant we couldn’t raise it to be able to stand up inside the van without risking damaging something else. As I type this we are sat in Rodez VW and the hinge is being replaced, but it took a week to get the appointment to figure out what needed to be done and another week to order and install the parts.
    • Issue 2: The windscreen got hit by a stone and had a crack, so needed to be replaced. Fortunately insurance covered this, but it took a week and a half to get the appointment. That’s sorted now.
    • And, we’ve been trying to register Zeus with ICAD and get his EU passport. More on that soon. We don’t think we need to stay local while we wait for his ICAD registration. So we’re hoping our next update has some further travel in it.

    Frequently Asked Question 2 – Isn’t the campervan too small?

    Another frequent question is “How will you cope with living in such a small space?” We did a lot of thinking before we left on what we needed in the van, and did some trial trips to practice. Now that we have some real experience:

    • Lesson 1: Nearly everything depends on teamwork. For example in our apartment I could go and wash the dishes on my own. That’s not viable in the van – you need to wash, dry and repack as a single operation involving 2 people, as there is no space to move around easily.
    • Lesson 2: Everything takes longer so we can’t fit as much in the day. This is either because you’re working in a cramped space or because it’s a task that wouldn’t be part of your normal home life. Examples are having to brush teeth one person at a time, making and un-making the bed everyday (otherwise you can’t close the roof), filling and emptying water tanks. Luckily we are now time rich and maybe it is a good experience for us as former city folk to have to slow down a bit (a lot).
    • Lesson 3: The weather conditions really affect what you can do and everyone’s happiness levels. We had a several days of wet and cold weather. The van has no insulation so we’ve been sleeping in our clothes and wrapping Zeus up in several blankets. When it’s raining you can’t use the outside as part of your living space or choose to do an activity where you might get really wet as there’s nowhere to dry people or clothes. But you can make progress with reading or knitting projects.

    We’ve found that after several consecutive days of cold and wet, we’re all tired and cranky. The main takeaway here for us is to find some milder and drier place to be.

    That’s exactly what we did last Thursday after our first visit to the VW garage to assess the broken bed. We made a snap decision to drive down to the Mediterranean, via the awesome Millau bridge, for few days before we had to return for the windscreen fix. It was a good choice. We all slept much better. Zeus got to do some running on the beach (he loves to run). We did some good walks with views of the Mediterranean and Pyrenees. And, found some good bike trails.

    The other experience we want to share from the last 2 weeks is our two stays at Passions. Passions are sites where campervans can stay for free for an evening, sometimes with basic facilities, typically at a farm, vineyard, cheese maker, etc. In exchange you might try and buy some of their produce. It’s something we’d be keen to do and the experience in both cases was great.

    • La Ferme du Gazenas: This farm produces milk for Bleu des Causses cheese. We got to learn about the history of the farm – post WW2, the evolution of the farm with the introduction of EU and quotas. We learnt about the milking process and fed some newborn calves. We learnt about and sampled the Bleu des Causses cheese (it is similar in production to Roquefort, but is made with cow rather than sheep milk).
    • Domaine Duffau: Is a vineyard in the AOP Gaillac region. Here we could try wine without having to drive afterwards. The most interesting wines we tried were both made with local grape variaties Braucol and Loin de l’Oeil.

    Frequently Asked Question 3 – How do you use the loo in the campervan?

    The final frequent question is “Does your campervan have a toilet?” No, but you don’t want to read about that. Or do you? Let us know if you’re interested 🙂